Entering Elma | field notes from the Pacific Coast

Bill Pearse

Daybreak at Mosquito Creek backcountry camp, Washington Coast


By the time I got to Kalaloch they’d stopped serving breakfast and were turning things over for lunch, not in a rush to seat anyone. We were backing up in the lobby, I was second, a party of one. The lodge is a reliable place to use the bathroom on the way out to the coast and the food is exquisite. It’s not just the fact there’s nothing else around, they seem to really care. But the service is slow, it’s like no one wants to go as fast as everyone else. That’s why they moved to the peninsula. That’s why I go there, to slow down.

It wasn’t noon but because they were serving lunch that legitimized me ordering a beer. They offered samples, and I followed my server to the bar, picked a handle and committed to…

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